Catalogue and product photography is about documenting the clothes.
The ghost mannequin is where the body becomes invisible, which you can see on clothes website.
First permanent photograph is by Nicephore Niecepe.
When Niecepes dies, a pupil of his, Louis Daguerre continues his work.
Louis Daguerre, Boulevard de Temple, 1838/9
William Henry Fox Talbot
Invented a fixing process
Calotype - process using silver nitrate (as in black and white negative used in chemical processing)
UK in 1840, referred to as the second invention of photography
Virginia Oldoini, Countess di Castiglione, photgprahed by Adolphe Braun, 1956
She was a tuscan woman, and had an interest in fashion, she commissions people to photograph her in her gowns
Pierre-Louise Pierson took a photograph in her in 1863/66
Improvements in the halftone printing process means photographs can be reproduced in magazines
Paul Poiret (1879-1944)
House of Worth (Charles Worth, father of haute couture)
Freedom from corsetry
Signature shapes - hobble skirt harem pants
Clothing cut along straight lines
Influenced by antique dress
Edward Steichen photographs Paul Poiret designs for Art et Decoration, 1911
Adolf de Meyer, 1920s
Martin Munkacsi, early to mid 1930s.
He had a background in news and sports, which influenced his fashion photography, rather than having model stand in statuesque pose
Moving away from the pictorial image, and moving towards modernism. Experimenting with technical parts, i.e. shutter speed.
Steichen also moves away from pictorial style, and goes towards modernism. The Conde Nast Years, is very dramatic, is sharp and in focus, and uses directional lighting.
La Mode Pratique
Vogue vs Harpers Bazaar
Leaders in fashion photography in the 1920s and 30s
Hoyningen-Huene for HB (photographs for Madame Vionnet)
Horst P. Horst for Vogue
Horst P Horst Costume for Salvador Dalis Dream of Venus 1939
Photography takes a direction into surrealism
Using camera to explore fantasy and dreams
Cecil Beaton (1904-80)
British Vogue and Vanity Fair
Photographed and was a member of the Big Young Things in the 1920/30s
Photographed British Royals
Prolific Diarist
Designed sets, costumes, and lighting for Broadway
Vivien Leigh for Vogue, mid 1930s
Uses spot lighting, creating a dramatic scene
Stephen Tennant by Cecil Beaton
He also photographed Queen Elizabeth in 1968, the location is a reflection of her wealth and status
Lee Miller (1907-77)
Photographed by Steichen
American photographer and fashion model at 19
She socialises with avant garde photographers and artists
Gets involved with Surrealism, and gets photographed by Man Ray
Photograph of Eileen Agar, Brighton, England, 1937
Louise Dahl Wolfe
From 1936 to 1958 Dahlf-Wolfe was a staff fashion photographer at Harpers Bazaar
Night Bathing, 1939
Its an outside shot at nightime, illuminates models body
Panorama of Paris, Suzy Parker in Jacques Fath Gown, 1953
Use of exotic location starts to filter into photography
Colour photography is less common in fashion photography in 1940s/50s until the 60/70s
In the 50s, a documentary style starts to appear in fashion photography
William Klein produced documentary fashion photography. He is known for his use of movement and blur
David Bailey (1938-)
Mick Jagger
Terence Donovan Spy Drama 1962
Brian Duffy Jean Shrimpton on the Edgeware Road, 1960
Richard Avedon (123-2004)
Harpers Bazaar til 1966
Vogue 1966 onwards
The book 'In the American West'
Bill Curry, Drifter, Interstate 40, Yukon, Oklahoma, from In the American West, 1985
Helmut Newton (1920-2004)
Vogue and Harpers Bazaar
Guy Bourdin for Charles Jourdan Shoes
Strange fragmentation of the body, he reduces the body just to the calve and shoe, just promoting the product
In 1980s, I-D magazine do a Straight Up photography style, which photographers photograph people around the streets.
Juergen Teller (1964-)
German photographer
Photos in The Face, Vogue
Has worked with Viv Westwood and Marc Jacobs
Works with musicians
Annie Morton, 1996
Shows the drug and club scene, quite dark but glamorous
Corrine Day (1965-2010)
British fashion photographer and model
Worked for the Face and Vogue
Vogue cover with Kate Moss creditited with the beginnings of the trend for the waif look.
Tara
A documentary project by Day
Exhibited at Gimpel Fils gallery in 2000
Terry Richardson
Book Terrywold published in 2004
US photographer
Has worked for Vogue, Vanity Fair, ID magazine, Harpers Bazaar
Worked for Sisley, Diesel, Mango
Over sexualised images
Nick Knight
UK photographer
Worked with Yohji Yammamoto in the 90s and with Alexander McQueen, Christian Dior
Shots for Vogue, Vanity Fair, Another Magazine
Fashion Blogging
Democratises fashion photography
Anyone can write about photography fashion
Eg. Tavi Gevinsons
Exacitdues - Ari Versluis (photogpraher) and Ellie Uyttenbrock (stylist)
Projects:
Neighbours, Rotterdam 2008
Cassette Tapes
Homeboys, Rotterdam 2002
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